carrey

The story continues... http://www.mediafire.com/?765ylcppmk4vf Fully working (articulating) suspension, torsion bars and shock absorbers will be added later. Transmission bars etc. internal stuff - still no information (anyone wants to visit Oka in Sofia and take alot of pictures? ), so gizmology proposed. Working on wheels - drawings miss 3 mm of wheels' width, therefore I must figure out how to make them more realistic and KrAZ-like without totally reworking all 8 pcs.

more: http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=36810c6d8167157dab1eab3e9fa335cac6d9c350cfb4eb29

I don't like Shermans, but couldn't resist buying M-40 Big Shot 1/35 AFV Club, based on later Shermans. May be evacuation and recovery vehicle based on Sherman, some day.

I ignore scales. For me only the quality of model and the potential joy of modelling it is important. So my collection of kit boxes vary from 1/9 (Revell bike) to 1/700 (noname chinese kit of soviet 956-project ship - I got it as present, so no stress about my statement regarding quality models ).

I'm from Latvia. No one makes Iveco-Magirus in any scale except this, the model was fine, doesn't cost a million, so I've bought it, looks ok together with Henschel Tankspritze and Oshkosh HEMTT M977 in 1/87 also. PS: Englishmen prefer 1/76, wait for Landrover 1ton FC Ambulance, fresh pack from AirFix, made in India. Looks very promising, the whole cabin is of clear plastic, will be easy to paint, not this Herpa's pain in ass - semiassembled model with clear one-piece window put inside one-piece cabin that is impossible to disassemble, therefore the painting of window's borders with black was a real nightmare in complexity. Thanks for your interest.

http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=36810c6d8167157d91b20cc0d07ba4d2e9d89de74a822884

Well, don't know if it will make you feel really but anyway: The model is made by Roco, now repacked by Herpa in Minitanks series. Made of plastic (the best I've seen so far - very crisp and fine like Tamiya's, but harder like resin kits), wheel axes are of steel, wheels are of rubber. The baby comes semiassembled, missing delicate parts on frets (like conventional plastic kits) are packed in plastic bags - the model is designed greatly, almost all parts go together without glue, on "clicks", so finished and painted model can be disassembled again for more modifications or repainting. Concerning geometry - Roco models are perfect as always, especially recent ones (approx. after year 2000) - there are no mistakes to correct, what I especially hate in conventional kits. Well, there probably are some simplifications which are because of too small scale (1/87), those you may want to remodell to more fine representation, but you can leave as it is, it will do. Price is higher than, say, conventional plastic kits in 1/72 scale, but if we compare the joy it brings and the speed of modelling - it is cheaper. It's like to make adequately-looking model from some 1/72 kit, you have to buy some photoetching parts, resin parts, and put much time (which also cost money as we know) into it. For Roco models you just have to delicately disassemble it, make all parts look fine and to scale (remove parting lines, put putty into holes, make sheets more thin where needed and so on), paint it and delicately assemble together. It takes approx 2 weeks for a model, the fun is great, the model looks good, it is properly correct, and most importantly - it doesn't take much space in your showroom! Concerning this M977 - what I added or remodelled is as follows: Original parts can be seen here: http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=36810c6d8167157d91b20cc0d07ba4d2a378cc8f296fd309 Drilled out headlights, put alu foil inside (reflector shaped from foil circle with steel ball + foil strip turned over small drill over reflector for headlight cylindrical walls), some drops of tamiya clear acryl - and voilez-vous - perfect headlights! Crane controller handles are of 0.1mm steel wire, 4 pieces turned U-shape and inserted from behind into 0.3mm drilled holes, polystyrene sheet glued from behind. Black balls on handles are of PVA (white glue) painted with tamiya black. Cabin glassing toned blue (like it should be on real vehicle) with blue marker, painted all over from inside, cleaned with tissue, again painted only over edges. Thinned and modelled to proper bottom window for driver, glued clear plastic window into it as well. Mirrors are of Oracal self-adhesing plastic. Frontal fret is a bit modified to look authentic. Exhaust cover is of round foil. Wheel axes are shortened 1mm each (common mistake on many Roco models - too long axes so wheels go out of wheel arches). Replacement wheel disk is remodelled, handle added. Crane hook was put on 0.1mm steel wire, wire that holds rail is made of 4 x 0.1mm wires turned together. The rail is of steel, very real and to 1/87 scale, from rail modeller's accessories. Cut in 60mm parts with diamond disk on 20 000 rpm and rusted naturally in tin coffee pot. Crane is all working, may be I will add hydraulic lines and make it automatic as well some day... 8) Brush-painted with tamiya nato green overall, toned down with tamiya flat black. Silver is Pilot G-1 pen, the smallest fraction I've seen. Any questions unanswered? 8)

http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=36810c6d8167157d91b20cc0d07ba4d21a2bf20284b2ba93 Edit... Te i kilkadziesi±t innych zdjêæ tego pojazdu w linku... http://www.mediafire.com/imageview.php?quickkey=zedzymqetzz&thumb=4 Admin...

http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=36810c6d8167157d91b20cc0d07ba4d2806a42154d12843f Finished, did no weathering, looks ok even so 8)

Made another mirror, now more to scale. Added scratchbuilt Notek lights, both frontal and rear, also bell from alu foil, all in scale as usual. Prepainted model: http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=36810c6d8167157d91b20cc0d07ba4d2b6ebb97324c9efb5 Any pictures, drawings, info, books, walkarounds on subject?

Well, the total length is 9 cm, will make a foto with a match nearby.

Disassembled, 53 parts: http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=36810c6d8167157d91b20cc0d07ba4d27a0e9a2b3f8938b9 After 6 days: http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=36810c6d8167157d91b20cc0d07ba4d2d10b9b1332434fa8 Next - rear lights, maybe some pedals inside the cab, painting and weathering. Your opinions?

More crooky than Italeri 1/72 model? No way! 8))) You mean nose bent to left side or something else? What you see now is only inner structure, it will be remodelled / puttied / sanded many times until I start with upper surfaces. If you can, paint suspicious places with red arrows and show me, then I will know what to look closely.

http://foto.inbox.lv/carrey/Su-34/IMG-7413.jpg and forth on. Correcting the nose, shaping the underside.

Dla siebie, of course. Who needs this crap besides me? 8) I could make ±proper 3D model and then I could order 3D-print of it, and make molds out of that print.. Or, better, order ready mold made from 3D model on a CNC milling machine. And then just put enough polystyrene - and voilez-vous - we all could have correct kit of Su-34 in any scale you want. Good that I don't work for Tamiya or Trumpeter, otherwise you all had to search for new job with better income rate. 8)

Hello everyone! First, new pics: http://foto.inbox.lv/carrey/Su-34/IMG-7393.jpg and forth on. Secondly, automotive finishing putty.. Will search for it, we have many different goods coming from Poland here in Latvia, you know... Sometimes I think everything we can buy here comes from Poland.. 8) Third, concerning references.. Yes, it is little known of subject, therefore it's interesting for me. Not a big deal to make a model from something that is rusting in your near garage, ready to be measured and investigated. Trying to figure out difficult construction of Su-34 from incomplete drawings and tiny fotos makes your brain work; besides - all this modelling hobby should teach you engineering knowledge, not just moments of happiness because you finished just another model. That is concerning scratchbuilding as well. It's always cool to assemble market kits, it's easy way. Good when kits are with mistakes - you should discover mistake, think how to solve it (alternatively, buy aftermarket correction if you're lazy 8) ) and finally make assembled kit correct. But the best of all (and sometimes more easy than correcting wrong kit) - is to make things from scratch. When you understand how the construction of prototype is done (thanks to Grzegorz and other enthusiasts who provide us with information - manuals, schemes and walkarounds), even when you scratchbuild with no robotic precision - your model will look real, with no mistakes. Sorry for taking your valuable time with my silly spamming. 8)))

I bet I answered your questions in English already! 8)

Ну, если так, держите новые фото: http://foto.inbox.lv/carrey/Su-34/IMG-7386.jpg и вперёд. No je¶li tak to trzymajcie nowe fotografie....... i naprzód... Всё делаю из листового полистирола (polystyrene), толщина 1мм, можно купить лист 1 метр * 2 метра за 12$ на складах, продающих материалы для рекламы. Клею revell contacta, лучший клей. Режу модельным ножом, по стальной линейке. Wszystko robiê z polistyrenu grubo¶ci 1mm, mo¿na kupiæ arkusz 1mx2m w cenie 12 dolarów w hurtowniach sprzedaj±cych materia³y dla reklamy. Kleje klejem REVEL CONTACTA. Tnê modelarskim no¿em przy metalowej linijce. Су-34 делаю так: каркас по чертежам, он же - силовой набор. Крылья (консоли) - каждое из верхней и нижней половины. Потом между шпангоутами (вертикальные пластины, по сечениям-разрезам из чертежей) буду вклеивать тонкие полоски полистирола. Потом всё покрою автомобильной шпатлёвкой (ещё не купил, какую посоветуете?) и буду шлифовать под гладкие обтекающие поверхности. Su-34 robiê tak: szkielet wed³ug rysunków technicznych (planów...). Skrzyd³a wykonam oddzielnie z dolnej i górnej czê¶ci.. Potem miêdzy wrêgami (pionowe p³aszczyzny, wed³ug przekrojów wyciêtych na podstawie rysunków (planów...))bêdê wklejaæ cienkie paski polistyrenu... (przypis: metoda podobna do pokrywania listwami kad³ubów ¿aglowców tyle, ¿e listwy (paski polistyrenu...) nie s± naginane do wrêg a ciête od wrêgi do wrêgi...) Potem wszystko pokryjê samochodow± szpachl± (Jeszcze jej nie kupi³em, jaka by¶cie mi poradzili?) ca³o¶æ bêdê szlifowaæ do uzyskania g³adkiej powierzchni. А как делаете такие сложные формы вы? A jak wykonujecie wy takie z³o¿one kszta³ty?...

I looked in Putin's eyes, in between three letters (K-G-B) I've found modelwork.pl Grzegorz took me here.

New pictures! http://foto.inbox.lv/carrey/Su-34/IMG-7352.jpg and forth on.

http://foto.inbox.lv/carrey/Su-34/IMG-7345.jpg and forth on. too little information on subject, therefore don't expect 100% accuracy for now on, i use AiV drawings and misterious drawings with slices from http://airwar.ru/other/draw/su34-2.html if you can point me on good source of data, please do so before it's too late!

new pictures: http://foto.inbox.lv/carrey/oka/IMG-7300.jpg and forth on.

no no no, 8 wheels, each is 13 mm thick, therefore, to make 1 wheel I glue together 13 circles.

Check wheels at http://foto.inbox.lv/carrey/oka/IMG-7230.jpg and forth. I wish I could work for Tamiya-san... 8)

this model is 100% free of any aftermarket. absolutely everything is done from scratch. wheels are easy done: 1) cut 13 circles of 1mm polystyrene for each wheel, glue together, press. 2) drill centre, put on screw, insert in proxxon micromot, lathe to torus. 3) draw protector trees, cut, glue to wheel. 4) bend protector to inside, press to table. 5) turn over, repeat for other side. 6) screw wheel on micromot again, lathe protector separators. 7) finish the wheel. pictures of finished details for wheels will follow. you will piss hot of the level of details that can be done, far greater than trumpeter wheels. 8)