Nick_Karatzides

At present time, the windsock is under painting proccess. I used the FS31302 "Matt Red" available by Life Color as LC06 acrylic, applied with a soft brush, to establish a basic layer and later blend it, to look brighter onto the points supposedly lightened more, by spraying much diluted FS30257 "Sand Yellow RLM79VAR" available by Life Color as UA081 acrylic, just not to look too dull. After the primary painting & lighting stage, I repeatedly sprayed a very diluted mixture of thinner and FS33538 "Yellow RLM 04" available by Life Color as UA140 acrylic, at a ratio of 95% - 5%, over selected areas such as the fabric folding edges and a few other points, that IMHO should look more enlightened

Best tool for the job? Text between pictures, is written to be read. I wrote "...although a picture of a torn windsock would be more atractive & interesting, I had to keep it simple and not overdo...". That means that the windsock, as mentioned before, will not be torn or look abandoned - it will be just deflated! From an artistic point of view, the symbolic of the "deflated" state of windsock, could (in indirect way) imply that the Salamandra is not an active training glider anymore, but an old veteran, resting in peace on the grass. To make everything look rusty, dusty, totaly weathered & completely abandoned like never been touched for years, is easy thing to do - but thats not the point. My aim is recreate a picture of terse abandonment, without extreme features that could distract viewer’s attention, keeping the glider as the main protagonist of the story. Total abandonment and a state of complete wreckage, would lead into a scene, where the Salamandra would no longer be the protagonist. Imagine the Salamandra, left in the open, next to a green grass field where all weekend glider pilots & aviators prefer to have fun. If you ask me, yes the metal wires should (and will) look rusty, yes the wood frame should look dirty and dusty after few months at the open field, but not in a total wreckage condition that make it look like useless wood, suitable only the fireplace. Although I intend to place a couple of objects on the grass, just to break the green color monotony, the plan is to keep a balance in the scene, while filling empty space & keeping the IS-A as the only "model" on display. ...time will tell if I will succeed or not. PS. Feel free to check following picture, showing an IS-A Salamandra glider, left abandoned for years - maybe decades. Doesn't look nice huh? It doesn't even look like glider any more...

CHAPTER VI - Grass field display base construction When I started this project, I was concerned about the proper display option, on which the model would be placed. For this reason, I asked fellow modelers to advice on how they would do if in my position. Talented & world class scale modelers such as Mr. Rick Lawler from AK interactive team, honored me by sending their kind answers, suggesting what best to do according their opinion - I thank them all. Most of the responses I got, recommended simplicity & austerity with no extra diorama features. Just to place the cutaway shaped model onto a dark colour or black) shiny laminated wooden base, so that nothing would distract viewer’s attention from main subject - the Salamandra cutaway. Following their advice, I tried some dry fit tests with few spare laminated wooden bases I had, to check how it looked like. I tried different shades of wood and finaly black sheet of plexiglass. Evidently the visual experiment clearly proved that the model got nearly disappeared into the natural wooden base's background, regardless of whether the background was light, medium or dark wood. Since the actual IS-A frame was entirely made of wood, it seemed that placing the model on a wooden base, might not be good idea. Black plexiglass tests, also didn’t looked right to me. I also received suggestions for mounting the glider on a clear pole which seemed nice idea, but model’s cutaway stucture was too fragile to be securely pinned on a single point. I also tried to digitaly create a virtual model, with the glider placed on a concrete tarmac or shiny black ground, cut on Poland’s map shape - since the IS-A was a typical sample of pre WWII Polish aviation design. I was almost sure I was going through a non-creative phase and getting ready to pack the model in a box and store it until having some good idea. Unexpectedly, I became obsessed with the idea of placing the glider model on a "grass airfield" dio base. Probably, my opinion had been shaped (aka influenced) by viewing the following two pictures, where the IS-A glider is laying on the Spring green grass. My goal is to recreate a scene of an aeroclub small airfield, where the old Salamandra is now resting in peace. I ‘ll try to place the glider in such a way that will look like an old time abandoned wreck, with all plywood & fabric lining removed, tilted sideways to rest on the short green grass field, with one wingtip touching the ground and the other on air. Some torn fabric & plywood parts would be also laid nearby, some rusted & cut wires, possibly a couple of Marsden matting / PSP - Pierced Steel Planking plates or maybe a waving windsock etc. could be also present in scene. In general, a picture of terse abandonment, without extreme features that could distract viewer’s attention, keeping the glider as the main protagonist of the story. From an artistic point of view, the abandonment might possibly dictate everything to be into a state of complete wreckage. That would not be the desired result, because it would lead into a diorama scene, where the Salamandra would no longer be the protagonist. My aim is to balance the scene, while filling empty space & keeping the IS-A as the only "model" on display. I found the idea of a deflated windsock nice, in order to fill some empty space and break the monotony of green, while remaining in scene's background same time. Although a picture of a torn windsock would be more atractive & interesting, I had to keep it simple and not overdo. Using a small amount of Milliput putty, I made a small ball, dust it with talcum powder and pressed it against the working bench with a roller until it becomes as thin as could get. The use of talcum powder is necessary to avoid Milliput sticking on roller or fingers and get easier to handle without tearing to pieces. While Milliput putty was still soft, I cut it into triangle shape and rolled it up, to form into a right to scale windsock cone. Then, the cone was bended as required to look deflated and simulate cloth’s weight. While Milliput putty was still soft, I cut it into triangle shape and rolled it up, to form into a right to scale windsock cone. Then, the cone was bended as required to look deflated and simulate cloth’s weight. The result made of epoxy putty (seems like elephant's proboscis or its just my imagination?), left few hours to get fully polymerized and then I cut the tip to achive the correct lenght dimensions. Few epoxy overcast remains that were left, also removed during cutting process. Internal frame added later, using metal wire & styrene rod.

To apply the wood grain on wide areas covered with plywood, such as the airbrakes, I used wood grain colour from artists oil paints. The higher quality artists grade paints work much better because the pigments are much more finely ground. I believe that “502 Abteilung” by MIG Productions, “Van Gogh” and “Talens” are good brands. The colour of the background coat and the oils may be varied for different kinds of wood. However, be aware that selecting a good colour combination that gives that natural look is tricky. I recommend experimenting on a test piece first before committing yourself to apply the mixture on your latest wondermodel. I arrived at my blend of "Burnt Sienna", "Yellow Ochre" and "Raw Umber" in a ratio of 25% / 25% / 50% after trying with "Raw Sienna" (too red), "Yellow Ochre" (too orange), and one or two mixed combinations. Once the base coat has cured, I brushed the oils with a broad, soft brush and spread the paint around until the desired colour density is achieved. Because working in oils is a little bit goes a long way, I started by putting just a little bit of paint on the end of the brush. I kept the brush strokes going in one direction and didn’t really worry about leaving brush strokes - I wanted them there for the wood grain. I tried not to spread it on too thick, or it would make the next step more difficult. At this point the oils would be workable for several hours. With a broad, soft, clean and completely dry paint brush, I draged over the oil paint, leaving wood grain streaks. I jiggled the brush every now and then to give the grain a bit of variation. As the brush picked up the paint, I wiped it off on a clean, lint free cloth and continue process. “Lint free is the key phrase, as any speck of lint would adhere to the oil paint and destroy the finish. The beauty of this technique is that you can clean the oils off and try again if you goof up. Use a clean cloth and paint thinner (mineral spirits or turpenoid - not lacquer thinner) to wipe clean any mistakes and start over again. For my 1/18 scale Salamandra model, it took me about three or four tries to get the paint density and colour right, but it really was quite painless. In some parts of the model which should look more bright, I slightly toned up with "Buff" & "Yellow Ochre" mixtures, or even pure “Basic Flesh Tone" and “Sunny Flesh Tone", while some others had to show darker, using "Brown" or "Raw Umber" color and blend naturally. The areas marked with yellow circles supposed to be covered by plywood and the areas marked with purple circles supposed to be more bright and slightly toned up. As soon as the result was OK for me, I left it alone to dry for few days and then sprayed over selected areas with Tamiya Color X-24 "Clear Yellow" acrylic, because it also helps bring the grain color out more.

Thanks for answering. Seems like "Admin" didn't even bother to answer my PM to him...

@ Admin, You had the kindness to warn me two times about signature's picture size, without have been previously set some pixel limitations - never seen anything written anywhere. Could you please tell me what is the maximum signature picture size, because its little difficult for me to become a prophet and start guessing? Thank you

Studing the available photos I have, whether from my visit to the Polish aviation museum Krakow, Poland or pictures came from individuals who have built IS-A replicas around the World, I noticed that some of the metal parts ie control surfaces rods and cockpit levers, are painted with a green colour, which looks much alike the green that Soviets used to paint their jet fighter cockpits. To be honest, since all the 60 - 70 years old pictures are B&W, I'm not really sure if the actual IS-A gliders had these parts painted green, or if its just a practice by modern replica manufacturers. I decided for artistic reasons only and without being able check this feature authenticity, to paint these levers & rods with mentioned green colour. To do so, I used the FS24115 "Bright Green RLM" available by Life Color as UA055 acrylic and later blend it, to look brighter on middle areas, spraying much diluted FS30257 "Sand Yellow RLM79VAR" available by Life Color as UA081 acrylic, just not to look too dull. After the green parts painting & lighting, I repeatedly sprayed a very diluted mixture of thinner, Life Color UA717 "Wood Cold light base" acrylic and Life Color UA716 "Wood Warm light shade 2" acrylic at a ratio of 90% - 5% - 5%, over selected areas such as the wings leading edges and a few other points, that should look more enlightened. THE FACT: Nowdays 3D printers are not perfect yet and may leave traces that look like finely ridged surface. Its a result from the resolution of the nozzle laying down the plastic, especially when no acrylic based polymers or V-cured acrylic plastics are used. These special matterials can print fine details, give a smooth & slightly shiny result, but for the moment, cost more. THE BAD NEWS: I did the stupidity to use the cheap matterial, in order to keep low the printing cost. And yes, these 3D printer traces, which before painting did not even appear, are now slightly visible. THE GOOD NEWS: These printer traces, (am I lucky or not?) look like wood grains! Yeap, that suits me a lot, because what I 'm trying to simulate here, is a glider frame made of unpainted, rough & hard wood. Since other scale modelers try to replicate this exact wood texture effect, I've already have it 3D printed in front of me.

I've been nformed by Polish language speaking forum members for the misspelling of the inscription. The right name (in Polish language) should be written as "Instytut Szybownictwa" instead of "Instytucie Szybownictwa", but since I do not speak Polish language, put the blame on Wikipedia. I apologize for the mistake, but as people say, "...the one who makes no mistakes is the one who does nothing..."

CHAPTER V - Applying paint, wash & weather effects As soon as the Humbrol light grey acrylic primer dried, the model washed with liquid soap and warm water to disappear leaving oil traces, fingertips etc. Usually, there are two available options for a scale modeler, to apply paint on a model: Paint the individual parts first and assemble the scale model later, or Assemble the scale model parts first and paint the overall built model later. While planing this 1/18 scale IS-A Salamandra model building, the 2nd option seemed as more appropriate and would make my job much easier. A really good reason to stick on this option, is the fact that the Salamadra glider's main frame was entirely constructed of wood. Ofcourse, fabric was covering the wings & tail and plywood was covering the cabin’s nacelle as well. But, since I had in mind to build this model as an artistic "cutaway" view, presented on its wooden frame only, I had no reason to avoid an overall wood colour tones painting. Replicating wood is one of those feared tasks in modeling that many try to avoid at all costs. Having a couple of different methods in mind to simulate wood in scale, but knowing that the following method is much accurate and easier to re-do if something goes wrong, I found good idea to follow some tricks I learned from other builders and changing things that works for me. To simulate the look of rough wood from which was made the glider's frame, I first applied a background colour. I split the areas to be painted in different categories and sprayed four different primary colors on each area. I used the following colors, which seemed to work OK for me, for the basic background. It is important to use an acrylic base colour because it is chemically impervious to the steps that follow. FS31643 "Matt Flesh Carnicino" available by Life Color as LC21 acrylic, FS30400 "German Desert Yellow" available by Life Color as UA084 acrylic, FS30257 "Sand Yellow RLM79VAR" available by Life Color as UA081 acrylic and FS30140 "US Brown Marrone" available by Life Color as UA085 acrylic. Because the wood composition and quality was not the same everywhere, I also use the Life Color's "Weathered Wood" 6-pack set and repeatedly covered some areas with different shades of very very very diluted & light layers over the previously applied base colours. To do so, I used the following: Life Color UA717 "Wood Cold light base" acrylic, Life Color UA718 "Wood Cold light shade" acrylic, Life Color UA715 "Wood Warm light shade" acrylic, Life Color UA716 "Wood Warm light shade 2" acrylic, Life Color UA714 "Wood Warm light base" acrylic and Life Color UA713 "Wood Warm dark shade" acrylic. I'm not really sure if it is actually vissible into following pictures, but repeatedly applied very diluted & light layers, resulted more natural look of wood shades, without even aplly any oil colours yet. The first applied base colours, are visible under the later applied layers of the "Weathered Wood" shades, setting a base for the next process.

CHAPTER IV - Attempting to join the basic parts As soon as the individual scale model’s parts were already produced, cleaned & dry fit tested, I had to assemble everything as one piece, without damaging the frame construction. Just because the Salamandra was entirely constructed of wood, I decided that its much better to assemble all model’s parts first, sand if required and later apply paint and weathering effects as a final touch. During assembling process, everything was secured in place & glued with CA liquid adhesive superglue, which found at local market for 0.16 € per tube (each 12-tubes card, costs 2 € only). It does bonds in only few seconds, reaches extremely strength at room temperature and it is suitable for materials such as wood, rubber, plastic, metal, ceramics, leather, marble, polyethylene, polypropylene, teflon etc. Once I´ve tried this CA superglue on my scale models, I’ve never go back. Following the 1/18 scale printed diagrams and using a new sharp Nr 11 stainless steel surgical blade and 4x4 mm sectioned styrene rod, it only took about 2 minutes to prepare the basic tail boom frame. The supporting frame consists of two 228 mm long beams that join the front compartment (cabin & wings), with rear part (tail elevator & stabilizer fins). The only piece that remained without gluing, is the tail rudder fin which will be set in place after paint. The glider model’s wingspan is now fully developed and looking really big as it is spreading lazily all over my working bench - approx 70 cm from one wingtip to the other. Some tiny gaps between the parts connections, were filled with putty, applied with an old brush. As soon as the joints between the cabin, wings & tail boom parts were securely glued with CA superglue and later filled with putty on tiny gaps, it was carefully sanded with nail files & sanding sponge block, found at the local beauty care shop - the only good moment when following wife on her shopping. They are cheaper than dirt, since each nail file cost 0.1 € (each 10-nail files card, costs 1 € only) and the sanding sponge cost 0.5 € per block. When it looked OK to me, the whole model was sprayed over with Humbrol acrylic primer to spot any mistakes and placed into a box to wait the final paint applying.

CHAPTER III - Converting Mbytes into actual model parts Before start building a new scale model, I always try to study as much as possible the object of construction. If books, technical manuals and detailed walkaround photos are available, that will help a lot the model building process. To know how it works and how exactly it is made on real aircraft, always helps to build the scale model. During the study that preceded this model construction, I noticed that the WWS-1 / IS-A glider is quite popular among the RC modelers, who use specific patterns to cut balsa wood and prepare their RC model parts. These patterns seem to be identical to the real glider construction frame, as found into a copy of the official technical manual, purchased from Krakow aviation museum. The building attempt, would not be successful without help from Mr. Ivo Mikač from Czech Republic, who kindly provided me with all info and the 3D plans he had previously create. Because these 3D plans were made for RC modeling purposes, I had to convert & detail them into something that could be much closer to my needs for “static” scale modeling. So, I spent few hours in front of my laptop, to scale down into correct 1/18 size and digitally cut (within a hundredth of a millimeter accuracy) the glider’s compartments into virtual pieces, detail & improve the plans, having always in mind that the later printed parts, should perfectly fit and finally become a fine scale model. After converting the 3D plans as required and double check for possible mistakes, I saved it as a digital file and forward it on a 3D printer to start generating the individual parts of the model. Shortly thereafter, the printing proceeding outcome pleased me, while watching the Mbytes, magically converting into actual items. Yeah, that’s what I call “cool gadgets” on scale modeler’s service. As seen in the following pictures, as soon as the produced parts were cleaned, I checked for broken parts & imperfections. The model now consists of only a few parts, found into three (cabin, wings & tail) basic frame sections. Some additional details such as wings supporting rods, control bars & wires etc made of styrene, will be later added. Cabin with separate rudder pedals & control stick, Left & right wings with separate left & right ailerons, Elevator with separate left & right fins and stabilizer with separate rudder fin. After my sweetheart wife (aka “4-star General in home” & “family's financial director”) conducted a strict quality control and 3D printing result evaluation, she smiled & proudly signaled green light for further building. After each section was dry fit tested to ensure that anything can be combined together as one piece, the parts forwarded for assembly.

CHAPTER II - Meeting the Salamandra glider “WWS” is an abbreviation of "Wojskowe Warsztaty Szybowcowe" (meaning “Military Gliding Workshops” in Polish language), based in Krakow, Poland. Founded on 1935 by Waclaw Czerwinski who had taken over the management. The MRP-1 Salamandra project, was the first project which was created under his leadership. The Salamandra was a training glider, who had excellent flying characteristics, so that it was decided very quickly to take over in mass production in various workshops throughout Poland. Before the WWII, the Salamandra glider was also built under license in Yugoslavia and after 1943, the "Salamandra" was also produced in Romania. After the WWII, the production started again with a re-engineered version made from the “IS” which is an abbreviation of “Instytucie Szybownictwa (meaning “Gliding Institute” in Polish language), under the name Warszawa IS-A Salamandra. During the 1950ies, the Salamandra glider has been built in China, where a two-seater version was also created. Around 500 Salamandra gliders have been built around the World, up to date. The glider was also known by nickname "Czuwaj" among the Hungarian Boy Scout Association, which was the Polish version of the standard Boy Scout motto. The WWS-1 Salamandra glider, also inspired the Finnish Pik-5 design. The Yugoslavian built version was developed by engineer Ivan Šoštarić in 1939 and built by UTVA Panćevo factory as “Šoštarić UTVA Čavka”. After the end of WWII, the Yugoslavian built “Čavka” model was widely used in Greece and became very popular among the glider aviators. Both Athens aeroclub based at Tatoi airfield and Edessa aeroclub based at Panagitsa airfield, used these gliders for young aviator training purposes. Construction of the Salamandra glider was entirely of wood with fabric covering on wings and tail unit. The fuselage consisted of a plywood covered nacelle for the single seat cockpit, with a wire-braced open strut rear fuselage supporting the cruciform style tail-unit. The high mounted wire braced wings were supported by struts from the bottom of the fuselage to approx 1/5 span. Later versions introduced windscreens and airbrakes in the wings. Wooden skids under the tail and fuselage nacelle comprised the undercariage. The technical data & general characteristics are: Type designation: Wojskowe Warsztaty Szybowcowe WWS-1 / Instytucie Szybownictwa IS-A Salamandra, Usage: Solo training glider, Crew: 1 pilot, Year of first construction: 1935, Country of production: Poland, Yugoslavia, Romania, China, Length: 21 ft 3 in (6.48 m), Height: 7 ft 6 in (2.30 m), Wing span: 40 ft 11 in (12.48 m.), Wing area: 16.9 m² (182 ft²), Wing profile: Göttingen 378, Aspect ratio: 9.2 / 1, Empty weight: 309 lb (140 kg), Gross weight: 496 lb (225 kg), Maximum speed: 93 mph (150 km/h), Stall speed: 24 mph (38.5 km/h), Maximum glide ratio: 15.2 / 1 at 56 km/h (30 kts / 35 mph), Rate of sink: 159.5 ft/min (0.81 m/s). On 1967, Joseph Borzęcki converted a Salamandra to a motorized glider, equipped with a VolksWagen car engine 21 kW (28 hp) and named it "Cirrus". That specific motorized glider version, seemed very interesting to build under scale, but unfortunately I found out about it too late - I had already built the cabin and it was to risky to try convert the nose section in order house an engine. Most noticeable differences with the primary 1935 built WWS-1 model, are the presence of the retractable airbrakes on the upper side of wings and the squared tips of the elevator fins, as seen into following picture.

CHAPTER I - Today, the scratch building died Spartans refused to improve their long range weapons, because they always wanted to fight close to their opponent. That's why they had short length swords aka “xiphos”. Plutarch mentions in his "Lakonic Sayings" that when sometime an improved version of bow that could launch arrows farther to kill enemies from afar without risking presented to Spartan king Agesilaus, he replied: "Today the prowess died". This saying of the Spartan king Agesilaus came to my mind when I first heard about the 3D printers a few years ago and consider about the potential applications on scale modelling. For those who choose to deal with scratch building, the free access to 3D printer technology and the ability to create complete models or parts of a model using their home PC or laptop and CAD software rather building by hand, marks a new era in scale modelling. It is more than obvious that the time we spent to build from scratch using styrene sheet and X-Acto knife only, had ended and maybe in a few years there will be no more. It looks like "today, the scratch building died" On the other hand, we (as open minded scale modelers) could consider the 3D printing technology introduction into scale modelling and free access to the average modeller as an evolution in the hobby and a creative tool that helps us to build better and more realistic models. Certainly the new technologies and gadget tools in the hands of talented enthusiasts open new horizons and provide wide potentials on scale model building. If we had refused to take advantage of new tools, new incoming materials & resources offered by technology so far, we would never use airbrushes & air compressors for paint applying, we would never use pigments for weathering effects, we would never use new style micro tools & drilling devices, we would never use internet for know-how sources accessing and we would never exchange opinions through this forum. Having all the above in mind, I named the CAD & 3D printing as a “new tool in my pocket” (instead of “cheating”) from now on and I’ll try to discover all possible alternative ways that could be used for best results. The modern scale modeller, except being a creative builder & talented painter, should also be familiar with other scientific fields such as: History, Architecture, Aviation engineering, Military tactics, Photography, Article writing, etc, etc, etc. ...so, why not adding the CAD - Computer Aided Design & 3D printing skills? For those who might rush to say that this project is not a "scratch build", because the model did not actually "built by bare hands", I would answer as follows: Try to build your next model... Without using pliers, nippers & special scribers or knife blades. Just use fingers only. Without using specialized CA superglue, putty & epoxy products. Just use Mother Nature products only. Without using books or internet resources to get info about how the actual thing looked like. Just guess. Without using any kind of resin or photoetched aftermarket products, without even use styrene card as normaly found in local hobbyshop. Without using an airbrush, an air supply compressor & paint jars found on local hobby shop shelves. Just use Mother Nature products only. Without using stencils or water transfered decals. Make your own decals - without using a photocopier or a printer, ofcourse. Without using the latest products of AK series for weathering, rusting & dusting the finish on your scale model. What I’m trying here to say is that, just because it seems nearly impossible to imagine our hobby without the above stuff, just because the combination of "tools" plus "talent" plus "creativity" equals great building results, yes I believe that the 3D printing technology is actually in front of us and it will become a precious tool in hands of scale modeler. A new era is already here. Maybe, it’s about time for Spartan king Agesilaus, to reconsider his views..

1/18 scale Instytucie Szybownictwa IS-A Salamandra 53 scratchbuild model The text following is to describe the 1/18 scale Instytucie Szybownictwa IS-A Salamandra 53 (1953 version) model building, as produced by aviation factories throughout Poland.

The last few days, I tried to apply the first layers of wood-alike color shades, but I still need lot of work to do until final look. Since one of the final showing options was to place the model on a laminated wooden base, I did some tests today, on how the model would appear if placed onto a laminated wooden base. The visual result, clearly shows that the model gets nearly disappeared into the natural wooden base's background. Since the actual IS-A was entirely made of wooden frame, it seems that placing the model on a laminated wooden base, might not be so good idea. Οn the other hand, placing the model on a completely different color surface, it looks clearly better because the glider's silhouette lines are highlighted and the viewer does focus on the model without being distracted by a general blur of natural wood color. After taking a picture with same camera, same settings, same lighting cinditions & same angle, the visual result looks much different, isn't it? I have a strange feeling that in the end, the IS-A model will be placed onto a grass airfield, to make contrast with green. Nevertheless, because it seems that I still have lot of work to do on this project - meaning plenty of time till base construction - any available idea or opinion is welcome.

I see. So your vote is to place the model simply as is, on a laminated 60x40cm wood base. No grass, no ground, no pilot & no other stuff around. Right? Something like the following pictures.

When I started this project, the first thought was to place it in such a way that it looks like an abandoned wreck, with all plywood & fabric lining removed, tilted sideways to rest on the short grass field, with one wingtip touching the grass and the other on air. The same scene, some torn fabric & parts of the plywood would be also laid nearby, some rusted & cut wires etc. In general, a picture of abandonment, with the glider as the main part of the picture. When I saw the first of the following pictures, I liked the idea of cutaway frame tilted sideways with one wingtip touching the ground and the other on air. The second B&W picture, inspired me mostly for the abandoned wreck scene idea. The third picture, shows same glider model (built by Mario Glozinic) placed on a grass airfireld, but in 1/72 scale. What really bothers me on this presentation option, is that the whole scene would take at least 60x40cm base - considering that glider measures approx 70cm wingspan in 1/18 scale - and that could be a problem. On the other hand, a fellow scale modeler already proposed another idea, to also place a skeleton pilot next to the cutaway IS-A model. To be honest, I 've already had this idea before, inspired by the 1/16 scale Fokker Dr. I model, scratchbuilt by Ken Foran. The good part with this idea, is that I've already have a 4-inch tall skeleton figure to be the X-rayed pilot, but the problem is that yes, the "X-ray look" sounds good idea, but the presentation issue, still remains. Should it be placed on grass, on a laminated wood base, or else? Finally, a third option I can recall, is to nail the glider on a metal (or plexiglass) rod, tilt sideways or straight level flight possition and present it as it might look during flight, with frame only but in flight attitude - feel free to check following picture as an example. The main problem on this option is the stability. Considering that the whole cutaway model's structure is too fragile, attempting to place the model on the supporting pole, will require precise work, with no error correction capability. Same time, I am a little worried about the fact that the whole construction will be based on a single point, which will sustain all weight & balance stress. As you see, I 'm into a dilemma about the overall presentation style. Diorama-like, on-air style, or something else?

Hello fellow scale modelers, This is the model, on which I'm trying my latest WIP. A glider, built on my favorite 1/18 scale. The following pictures are taken few days before - I have already completed the building stage and dealing with paint job now. What I have not decided yet, it is the way of model's presentation. When I started this project, I had in mind to place the glider on a simple "grass airfield" dio base, but the idea of placing the model on a metal or plexiglass rod and stick it on a shiny laminated wooden base, started to sound also good. Keep in mind that the model (as seen in the pictures) is made as cutaway and now painted on wood-alike shades, representing as possible the real one which was entirely made of wooden frame and covered by plywood & fabric lining. As you might already recognized it, yes it's a Instytucie Szybownictwa IS-A Salamandra glider, 1953 built version (with airbrakes installed), a true part of Polish aviation History. For this reason, I found good idea to ask this forum for a little help. I ask your opinions, your suggestions, your creative ideas, always with imagination and inspiration. If possible, send an example picture of something similar or just describe with your own words. So my friends, lets have a brainstorm! How would you like such a model to be displayed? Thanks in advance for all your creative ideas & suggestions, Nick

As soon as I noticed that it started drooping down, I removed the frame while wearing Nomex Aramid flame resistant MilSpec gloves, to prevent finger burns. While the vacuum cleaner was already switched on, I placed the wooden frame with the pined styrene plastic sheet on the vacuum former plate. The styrene plastic nicely formed around the master cast... and voila! Using a sharp new #11 surgical blade, I removed the vacuum formed cabin’s lower chin fairing piece from the styrene plastic sheet and tried some test fitting on the cabin. As seen in the following pictures, the cabin’s lower chin fairing build succeeded in first attempt. It was important to make sure that it would not foul the main build. Well, it seems that this specific water based acrylic putty passed exams and became a part of my tools. I will certainly use it again when first opportunity may arise because: Can be poured into any desired shape, Becomes touch dry after 30 minutes and can be safely sanded after 2 or 3 hours, offering plenty of time to shape the master cast and add details as required, Does not crack as long manufacturer’s instructions are followed, Can be sanded, drilled, sawed etc, Additional layers can be added on previously build ups, Can be purchased at your local crafts store or any decent hardware store into 800ml or bigger canisters, It is cheaper than dirt! Estimated prices are 2€ to 5€ depending the canister size. Finally, even if you do not use it for scale modelling purposes, do some home improvement and repair the garage wall for which your wife complains for so long.

I got few wooden picture frames found at the local IKEA store for only 1€ to 3€ each (depending size) and few thumbtacks, to use them for steady & tight styrene sheet holding while being heated. Because I was planning to use smaller wooden frame to secure the styrene plastic sheet (the piece to be vacuum formed is not big and there is no need to spend styrene plastic card), I had to close the outer holes on the vacuum former’s hardboard high-density fibreboard plate. To do so, I cut a plastic bag in shape and covered as required the desired area. I pinned a styrene plastic sheet on the wooden frame and insert it into the preheated electric oven to some predetermined level, whatever works and start heating the styrene plastic sheet. I have never tried this with a gas one, so use caution if you do!

My first thought was to build the solid rock one piece master cast of the cabin’s lower chin fairing, by standard Milliput yellow grey epoxy putty or polyester filler as I usually do. Since I had recently purchased a new material, I thought it would be a good opportunity to try it. Experimenting new stuff (mostly unconventional to the known techniques) and finding possible applications on scale modeling, was always fascinating for me. Water based acrylic putty used to seal wall imperfections, indoors home improvement and other decorative applications, which becomes like hardened plaster when it dries, seemed just the right for the job. The stuff has excellent working properties, dries fast without cracking, is easy to sand and gives a smooth surface. Under normal conditions, it is touch dry after 30 minutes and can be safely sanded after 2 or 3 hours. So, I opened an 800 gr canister bought for 2€ only, pick a small quantity, add as required and start building the cabin’s lower chin fairing master cast shape by hand, following closely the dimensions of the 1/18 scale converted & printed on A3 sized paper page material found into the helicopter’s official technical order manual. As soon as the basic core made of standard Milliput yellow grey epoxy putty, had enough time to get hardened, I start covering with water based acrylic putty layers one after the other. The material felt too soft and very easy to spread nicely, offering plenty of time to try forming and detailing. I left it overnight and as soon as the lower chin fairing’s master cast made of water based acrylic putty had enough time to get hardened, it was sanded carefully to get the ideal curved shape. Additional details made with styrene plastic rods on the master cast which was finally sprayed with a gloss coat to help me spot any scratches or defect marks. Following the same method as described in previous WIP articles, the lower chin fairing produced in styrene plastic, by vacuum forming the hand made master cast. I always buy large styrene plastic 50x30cm sheets for 0.5€ to 1.5€ each (depending width), not the more expensive styrene by Evergreen. When an attempt fails, I usually throw the sheet back in the oven and start again. Once you have the machine, you can make all kinds of things. You can make a lot of aircraft wings, airframe parts, opened panels etc out of a styrene plastic sheet like that. You can build the master cast from basswood, epoxy, polyester etc and the parts you produce depend on how accurate the master cast is. The master cast must be as accurate and detailed as necessary to achieve the results you are after.

The truth is that I like building from scratch, but if I find something ready built & precisely sized on the accurate scale that I need it, I keep it - anybody would. It’s stupid to build something from scratch, when it’s already available to buy on the market. Obviously, the newly acquired Kyosho add-on cabin product for RC models, is not what someone might call as a highly detailed piece of art or a best choice ever. The reason I decided to stick with it, is because it looks like a nice platform for wide modifications and scratch detailing, until finally look like a realistic and accurate on 1/18 scale Breda Nardi Hughes NH-300C model. There were three things I did upon deciding to keep the Kyosho add-on cabin product and use it for extensive modifications & model building purposes: The tinted bubble shaped canopy made of polycarbonate, was removed from cabin and placed into a plastic bag to keep it safe until time to work with it, The twin fuel tank canisters sawed off and removed from canopy since they are not accurate to scale and will be built from scratch later, Despite the fact that the cabin and the tinted bubble shaped canopy dimensions are strictly accurate in 1/18 scale, the cabin’s lower chin fairing looks much shorter than it should - on the basis of the printed material & 3view diagrams. Feel free to check following picture and notice the difference between the present lower chin fairing (marked with green colour) under the cabin and the right to scale lower chin fairing (marked with red colour stripes). Obviously, the present lower chin fairing is shorter than it should be and it will be built from scratch. While planning the building, I thought as nice idea to build the helicopter model without the lower chin fairing and let the inner detail shown as appear in the following picture. As the construction progress was underway, I changed my mind because I discovered that the helicopter would loose its aerodynamic appearance and look more like a wreck than an operative flying machine. Schweizer S-300C registered as C-FIBC with Silverline Helicopters, hanging around on a hoist so its overhauled landing gear can be reattached. Photograph by Chris Coates, shot at Holland Landing CLA4 on June 24 2006. The cabin’s lower chin fairing should be constructed as one piece section. To produce a thin-skinned, right-to-scale cabin’s lower chin fairing, a solid rock one piece master cast of the cabin’s lower chin fairing should be made of modeling clay or polyester filler or basswood first and then try to reproduce a copy by vacuum forming. The aim is to produce the cabin’s lower chin fairing as a single moulding cast in styrene plastic sheet.

I had already bought a package of air dry modelling clay and I was about to start the bubble cabin’s core building process, while the following sequence of coincidence events took place. While visiting a good friend (scale modeller also) at his home and discussing about our WIP projects, he told me that he found a piece of toy (?) that looked a lot like to what I wanted to build. I did not pay much attention because he said that he found it into a toy store, while looking for a present to buy for his kid and I thought that a piece of toy could never be useful for my building project. In addition, since he is a strictly WWII AFV scale modeller with no special knowledge on rotary aviation related stuff, I thought that he might sees all the helicopters like the same. Despite I had no hope finding something worthwhile, I visited this toy store next day and OMG I found the following item, as previously described by my friend. This little yellow shiny thing immediately caught my attention. As I was informed by the toy shop owner, it was an add-on product for outdoors radio controlled helicopters - a field that I am completely unaware. So far, I had the impression that the vast majority of the RC modelers, do not really care about scale accuracy and appearance on their models. I had the impression that they only wanted to set this little thing up to the air, without taking special care on scale accuracy, realistic panel washing, weather effects applying with pigments etc. That’s why I had absolutely no idea if this RC related item was actually scale accurate - in any scale. Since I had no ruler or any 1/18 scale converted & printed paper material on that moment, I could only estimate “by sight” if it could be useful for my running project. The low price (approx 20€) persuaded me to buy it, knowing that it was most possible to never use it and send it directly to garbage bin. After all, the 20€ amount loss and a temporary frustration would be the worst case scenario if this item would be useless for the purpose I need it. On other words, risk management from theory to practice and applications for scale modelling. Coming back home and heading to my hobby room bench, I rolled out the 1/18 scale converted & printed on A3 sized paper page material I keep and compare it with the newly acquired Kyosho add-on product, by placing next one to the other. Voila! Isn’t that just amazing? Even though the scale modelling Gods were conspiring to help me find exactly what I was looking for, precisely sized on the accurate scale that I needed it, at the most opportune moment, it would never be so successfully achieved as actually happened just by pure luck. Considering the situation as happened, the following conclusions can be drawn: I'm defiantly lucky as Gastone Duck, My “by sight” size estimations are deadly accurate, I did not expect from an AFV scale modeler to accurately recognize the helicopter, remember it and suggest it as a problem solution when I told him about my attempts to scratch build it. I do confess that I was impressed and I’ve change my mind for AFV scale modelers for whom I had always believed they are considered unrelated to aircrafts & helicopters scale models.

CHAPTER II - Bubble shaped cabin & clear canopy construction The Breda Nardi Hughes NH-300C trainer helicopter is equipped with a 4.25 ft (1.30 m) wide crew cabin and a tinted bubble shaped canopy providing a perfect 360° wide visibility for the instructor and student pilot. In some cases (as observed in many helicopters of this type), the tinted canopy is so dark that look like black. Side doors installation is optional. To produce a thin-skinned, right-to-scale bubble shaped cabin, a solid rock one piece master cast of the cabin should be made of modeling clay or polyester filler or basswood first and then try to reproduce a copy by vacuum forming. The aim is to produce the bubble shaped cabin as a single moulding cast in styrene plastic sheet and clear polycarbonate for the glass canopy and the side doors. Fellow scale modelers that may have already read my previously WIP article, describing the 1/18 scale Bölkow Bö-102 Helitrainer scratchbuild project building, might remember that I’ve already present in detail the method to produce a bubble shaped canopy by vacuum forming styrene plastic and polycarbonate clear sheet. Additionally, into another article describing the 1/18 scale Jukka Tervamäki Engineering JT-9T autogyro project building, I also explain in a very detailed manner, how to build a home made vacuum forming device, starting from scratch and using materials that can be found in your local super market. If you are not aware how to scratchbuild a vacuum former, please feel free to read it as described and it might be useful for your future scale modelling projects.

Decision finally made. Let’s go Army (beat Navy?), let’s build the militarized ORANGE paint version!