Nick_Karatzides

1/35 scale FDCV - Fire Direction Center Vehicle Hellenic Army polyester resin model by White Tower Models As a result of a stupid bet I lost, I had to build and present a tracked AFV / SPG scale model or sing the "Panzerlied" in public. Considering that it’s more possible to watch Hell becoming frozen than me building a tracked AFV / IFV / SPG scale model, I had to accept that this stupid bet I lost, could be the beginning of my new era. I thought that building a modern AFV, would be more appropriate for me, because the WWII steel had never been my speciality. To be more accurate, I could barely spot the difference between a Tiger and a King Tiger - only if the King Tiger got the royal crown on turret. Otherwise, it’s all same to me. As an AFV scale modeling rookie, I (wrongly) thought that just because it happened to met few M-109s and the FDCV (in which I received the basic training provided for Hellenic Army Artillery young officers) during my days as a Hellenic Army’s School of Artillery cadet, I could easily build the model in scale. In the following picture, me as a Hellenic Army’s School of Artillery cadet, back in the mid 90s. My brother in arms was really ugly and I had to fill pixels in the face. I studied the Hellenic Army’s FDCV 500 pages technical manual which is the best reference I could get before start the project. The FDCV received by the Hellenic Army under special order to cover the Artillery demands. The FDCV differs (apart from the obvious operational role) a number of external details from the basic M-992 FAASV - Field Artillery Ammunition Support Vehicle version, used by NATO militaries as a 155mm projectile carrier. The FDCV - Fire Direction Center Vehicle is a modified M-992A2 FAASV - Field Artillery Ammunition Supply Vehicle which has been reconfigured into a POC - Platoon Operations Center. The FDCV - Fire Direction Center Vehicle / FAOCV - Field Artillery Operations Center Vehicle is the command & control partner for M-109 series howitzers. Based on the M-109 family of vehicles, FDCV/FAOCV provides low-cost, survivable command & control for artillery operations. It is a highly mobile, maintainable and survivable platform that can set up in minutes. A flexible design includes up to four computer workstations, or it can be configured for manual operations. It supports multiple radio and computer systems and can be equipped with an optional antenna mast that greatly aids in command and control missions. The system provides the command element with the same mobility as the M-109A6 Paladin. If required, bolt-on armour can be added to protect the specialist personnel and equipment carried. The FDCV/FAOCV shares a common chassis, automotive controls and drive train with the M-109 family, greatly enhancing maintainability, and it is 80% common to the M-992 FAASV - Field Artillery Ammunition Support Vehicle, increasing battlefield survivability. This vehicle was highly rated during Task Force XXI, where it maintained a 99.3% operational readiness rate. The FDCV was been tested at the US Army School of Artillery at Fort Sill to prove the feasibility and function of the concept under field and NBC conditions. Two FDCVs replaced two of the six M-1068 SICPS belonging to the EXFOR artillery battalion (4-42 FA) in the TF XXI. The following equipment was carried in the prototype FDCV: Mast system with OE254 antenna which is 11.28 m high when elevated, Mast elevation control box & mast elevation control power unit, Packet digital radio, 4 x RT-524/VRC receiver/transmitter radios printer, 9 stations of liquid cooling vest connect points, Tactical graphics terminal & tactical display, ANS 2000 land navigation system display, ANS 2000 land navigation system heading reference unit, M-13A1 filtered air system for NBC ventilated face pieces, M-43 NBC detector, M-42 alarm and M-49 NBC collective protective system, APU - Auxiliary Power unit, 36000 BTU cooling/heating air-conditioner v Ventilation filter/blower, PDP-1134 HEL computer & plotter, CRT terminal, digitizer, liquid cooling vest control box, M-10 protective entrance, battery boxes & batteries; liquid cooling vest chilling unit, 4 extra personnel seats & additional stowage compartments etc. A system is a standard reconfigured FAASV and a pair of "Pythagoras" lightweight computer units and associated equipment. "Pythagoras" is a microprocessor based artillery computer consisting of the main FPU - Fire Control Unit and six remote GDT - Gun Display Terminals. The system performs fire control at battery level and features easy and interactive operation, multiple preprogrammed menus and on-line transmission of firing data. Further development of "Pythagoras" includes full backwards system compatibility, single board computer architecture, multiple calipers and I/O serial communication port. One of the LCUs is loaded with BCS - Battery Computer System and the other is loaded with AFATDS - Advanced Field Artillery Technical Data System software. One of the stations is outfitted with a V2 Applique Computer and its associated situation awareness software. The FDO - Fire Direction Officer has a separate work station which will consist of a desk-like surface, storage for documentation, manuals, ancillary equipment, a map board, and a 21" flat panel display to a monitor either of the LCUs or the V2 applique computer. The work station has one VRC-89 SINCGARS - Single Channel Ground and Airborne Radio System with all associated hardware. The radio is modified to include the TF XXI SINCGARS SIP/INC - System Improvement Program capabilities and internet controller. The FDCV also has one VRC-90 and VRC-92 SINCGARS SIP/INC radios.

CHAPTER I - Basic airframe & tail construction I found a dieast Solido scale model into a general toy store. It looks more than a toy than a detailed scale model, but it is a pretty good basis to support the attempted project. Using a screwdriver, I removed all the screws & support pins, breaking the car in parts. This process is necessary, since the model should be improved and start scratching parts from the begining. The reference used for this project are some 3view diagrams and plenty of pictures of the actual Hafner Rotabuggy replica built by Wessex Aviation Society, as placed today at the Museum of Army Flying. Several raised details on the model’s chassis should be cleared. The spare tire, shovel & axe tools, etc. were removed and stored in the spares box for future use. The windshield, the hood with the supporting structure, passenger & driver’s seats, the instruments panel, etc. were also removed to build from scratch. The gaps on the metal chassis of the model were filled with epoxy cream. I prefer to use epoxy putty (or polyester filler with fiberglass grains for special purposes) instead of normal scale modeling putty, to close gaps or build new items, because: It becomes solid rock within only few minutes or seconds,, It does not shrink and does not crack after months or years, You can pour to any shape that you want but you need to work fast because as soon as you mix it with catalyst cream approx 5%, you have limited time before becoming solid rock, You can also put additional layers of epoxy or polyester filler to build up, You can sand it, you can drill it, you can use any type of scale modeling glue, any type of primer or enamel / acrylic paint on it with no problem, It can be purchased at any good crafts store into 250ml, 500ml, 1lt (comes with a tube of catalyst hardener) or bigger canisters and if you can't find it, fear not and try your local decent hardware store and finally... It is cheaper than dirt - estimated prices are £3 to £10 depending the canister size, the quality, if contains fiberglass grains for maximum strenght etc Keep in mind that the chemical reaction after mixing the filler with the catalyst hardener, produces some heat that possibly effect on thin plastic parts, so test it first before try it on your scale model. I don’t think that the produced heat is more than Fahrenheit 110, but better watchout. Remember that epoxy materials are dangerous when breath or shallow and could result skin, eyes or lungs problems or even cancer when used for long period with no precaution measures. Always keep in mind, that a powerful vacuum system to suck away the epoxy dust should be used all time to keep the workbench area clean while sanding or milling epoxy or resin materials. Using an issued breathing mask and a pair of surgery latex gloves to prevent dust contact with lungs and fingers while sanding or milling epoxy, is also an important matter that you should seriously take care of! My recommendation is to also wear an overall working suit (as I do) to keep your clothes dust free while sanding epoxy. Some people might find it too much, but I wouldn't like to bring epoxy dust & grains from my work bench into living room and my beloved Having already converted and print the 3view diagrams into 1/18 scale, I cut plastic styrene sheet as the tail base line. The plastic base glued onto the metal directly using cyanoacrylate which is necessary to solder non-like materials, such as plastic on metal. Along the glue, the point was reinforced by transverse plastic stick. As is visible on the pictures, a sparse metal net is placed inside the cabin to support the construction of plywood which is the cabin shell. Tail construction is supported by wooden rectangle shaped frames, arranged parallel to each other.

1/18 scale Hafner Rotabuggy flying Jeep Willys RAF Solido diecast conversion & scratchbuild The Hafner Rotabuggy (formally known as the Blitz Buggy or Malcolm Rotaplane) was an experimental aircraft that was essentially a jeep (actually a Willys MB) combined with an autogyro. It was designed by Austrian born British designer Raul Hafner of the AFEE - Airborne Forces Experimental Establishment after their development of the Hafner Rotachute enjoyed some success. The prototype was built by the M.L. Aviation Company at White Waltham in 1942. One of several failed concepts for the equipping airborne forces, the effort and risk in getting the Rotabuggy into battle would probably have outweighed its utility Initial testing showed that a Willys MB could be dropped from heights up to 2.35 metres (7.7 ft) without damage to the vehicle. A 12.4 metres (40.7 ft) diameter rotor was attached, along with a tail fairing and fins, but no rudders. The design work was carried out by AFEE staff, while most of the construction was undertaken by R. Malcolm Ltd, with H. Morris & Sons assisting in the manufacture of the rubber hub. The serial numbers RD123 and RD127 were allotted for the two Malcolm Blitz Buggys, although they were never to be used. The basic Jeep was fitted with a pylon to support the two-bladed rotor and a fairing to carry the tail surfaces. The Hafner Rotabuggy, as it became known, was to carry a pilot and a small load, together with a complete tankage of fuel and spare wheel, spare tank, tools and snow chains. The pilot occupied the starboard front seat, but an alternative arrangement for a second pilot was made in the port seat with dual controls. The tail fairing was a plywood monocoque structure attached at four points to the rear of the Jeep and cabin. Because consideration loads were transmitted through the fairing in some conditions of flight and in heavy landing, the Jeep was strengthened locally at the points of attachment. The twin-spar tailplane had trimming flaps on either side which were adjustable on the ground by means of turnbuckles. Large endplate fins were set at a slight angle in plain view to give incidence relative to the local airflow. Replacing the standard Jeep windscreen was a streamlined sheet metal framework with perspex sheets. The remainder of the cabin was built of plywood. Access doors with large perspex panels were fitted both sides. A hole in the cabin roof accommodated the pylon, with allowances for movement owing to the elastic suspension. In the cockpit a special dashboard on the starboard side contained an airspeed indicator, a rotor speed indicator, a sensitive altimeter and a turnand- slip indicator. A standard telephone system via the towrope allowed the pilot to communicate with the tug pilot, the amplifier and batteries being located behind the starboard seat. The Hafner Rotabuggy, camouflaged, carrying RAF roundels and a prototype "P". To test the performance of the rotor, it was mounted on a pylon attached to a Diamond Τ lorry, which was heavy enough to resist overturning when acted upon by the lift of the rotor. To start the rotor the lorry was driven forward slowly into wind while a number of men pulled on the starting cable at the rear. About 60 rpm was obtained, after which the rotor speed could be varied by varying the lorry’s speed. The first trial, a ground run, took place at Sherburnin- Elmet, Yorkshire, England on 16th November 1943, using the same lorry with a maximum speed of 24 mph. Unfortunately the lorry lacked speed, so the test pilot Sqn Ldr I.M.D Little, was sent to London to buy a faster vehicle. He came back with a 4.5 litre Bentley, which had just enough power to do the job. After three more ground runs the front wheels did leave the ground and Little took the Rotabuggy into the air for the first time at a speed of 37mph on 27th November. The next flight on 8th December was made using a Armstrong Whitworth AW-38 Whitley bomber as the tug, but due to increased speeds, the Jeep began to vibrate at speeds of around 50mph. So the Bentley was brought back in on 12th January 1944. After two more trials the rotor broke a tail fin. A few days later two more flights were made, but the vibration was still unpleasant. Then after two more Bentley tows, another trial using the Whitley took place, and this time it flew at a speed of 35-40mph. Later that same day (now 30th January) it reached a speed of 45mph. In a Whitley tow in the 1st February a flying speed of 70mph was reached. Flight tests continued using both car and plane, until test number 30, when after being towed behind the Bentley, the Jeep landed normally, but then swung through a 170 degree to starboard. Both blades struck the ground and 3ft of each rotor broke away and caused the Jeep to shake violently. Little was unhurt, but his passenger, Mr Walker, suffered concussion and broken ribs. New blades were made by the 20th of March, and more tests were carried out, with several modifications being made. After almost 60 test flights, the big day came on 11th September 1944, when Little took to the wheel, towed behind the Whitley. A seven to ten minute full free flight was achieved and the Jeep reached a height of 400 feet, at a speed of 65mph and landed successfully ‘although precariously’. However, this day turned out to be its last flight for Hafner Rotabuggy. Although initial tests showed that the Rotabuggy was prone to severe vibration at speeds greater than 45 miles per hour (72 km/h), with improvements the Hafner Rotabuggy achieved a flight speed of 70 mph (113 km/h) on 1 February 1944. The last test flight occurred in September 1944, where the unit flew for 10 minutes at an altitude of 400 feet (121.9 m) and a speed of 65 mph (105 km/h), after being released by a Whitley bomber, and was described as "highly satisfactory" However, introduction of vehicle-carrying aircraft such as the Waco CG-4 Hadrian glider made the Rotabuggy superfluous and further development was cancelled. Unfortunately, none of the original Hafner Rotabuggy used in the tests survived until today. In 1981, the Wessex Aviation Society has developed a copy and housed at the museum Museum of Army Flying in Middle Wallop, Stocksbridge Hampshire.

Yes. As far as I remember 1991 edition It took 4-5 hours to built, paint and weather this model. Yes, freehand with a relic airbrush. Yes, you are right. But keep in mind that was my first and possibly the last AFV scale model. After all, I always prefered aircraft & helicopters scale models - feel free to click HERE and HERE to check my other "aviation related" projects. For the above reason, I cannot claim myself as AFV modeler at all.

Yeap! That's why Google translators are for

1/35 scale M-42 Duster twin 40mm Hellenic Army SPG - Self Propelled anti aircraft Gun model by Tamiya That's an almost 20 years old scale model project of mine, built in only few hours. The model represent one of the M-42 Duster twin 40mm SPGs, used to operate with Hellenic Army colours. In fact, I found this M-42 Duster with exact s/n, stationed on Tsimandria beach at the island of Lemnos back in 1992, propably under some Army artillery movements for onshore protection versus LCVPs. Because I have no experience in AFVs or tanks, I took few pictures to avoid possible mistakes while building this model and relied exclusively on these photographs to build it. The M-42, was as dusty as it looks in scale, with the downward .50" BMG as you see, spare barrels, etc.

I’ve been asked about the available space where the rear passenger puts his feet on. From the pictures of the model have been published, and the art images (click HERE) found on the article’s first page, it appears that the rear seat is too close to the back of the front seat - and it is also clear from the bluebrints (click HERE) of the real autogyro that it’s not my own assumption or a model building mistake. In real autogyro, rear passenger's feet are not squeezed behind the front passenger seat back, but they are placed left & right of the front seat! To make it more understandable, here is a picture where: The green lines represent the front seat passenger and the position of his feet on the rudder pedals and The blue lines represent the rear seat passenger and the position of his feet on the rudder pedals. Also notice that the position of controls (stick, rudder pedals and engine throttle) meet the relative position of the elevator and rudder fins, the nose wheel, etc. The front & rear seat rudder pedals perform exactly the same movements as linked to the same wire transmission. If you also check the rudder pedals position, you’ll notice right rudder pedals pressed front end, bringing the left rudder pedals full back. As an effect, the nose wheel turns to the right and rudder fin turns in a way to turn the autogyro to the right as defined by the position of the rudder pedals. In similar manner, both control sticks (which perform exactly the same movements as they are connected to the same bar drive) are positioned slightly forward. This has the effect of elevator fins rotation so as to oblige the autogyro in the descent, as defined by the position of the control sticks. In a similar position the main rotor head is placed as required. As it is known, the autogyros and the helicopters leans to the left or right, elevates nose up or descent nose down, by turning the main rotor blades disc and secondarily to aileron and elevator fins (if present) and turn to left or to right with the rudder fins (autogyros) or tail rotor (helicopters). Click HERE to watch a video showing a tandem cockpit seating positions as described. Picture following too.

CHAPTER X - Epilogue Final details were added. VHF radio with headphones in the cockpit, mobile phone, seat belt buckles, main rotor control bars, cables, etc. To break the monotony of red, a toolbox and a tow added into rear storage area. At last, transparent plastic card were placed to simulate the wind shield glasses and of course the canopy in the open position. Close-ups of scratchbuild engine. Although initially I plan to represent a brand new bright and shiny engine I discovered that it would not fit the with a faded, dusty and weathered autogyro. That is why I preferred to add much wear, stains from oil and scorched medals at several points and some rust as example in the exhaust. The controls in this two-seater model autogyro, as with any trainer aircraft, perform the same movements. Feel free to notice the rudder pedals and you will see that the front and the back seat, right pedal is pressed to full FOR, bringing the left full AFT. This has resulted in turning the nose wheel to the right and turning the rudder of the tail in such a way as to twist the autogyro to right as defined by the position of the rudder pedals. Also notice that the throttle lever of back seat is attached on a bar connecting to the front seat engine throttle so to move simultaneously. The engine's power transmission is made with a wire, launched by the front seat throttle lever and lead the assembly of the engine. Finally, the control sticks are fallen slightly forward, which of course means that the elevators are set in a similar position.

The JT-9T model posing for the camera...

Details on rotor blades and the engine. The rotor blades are made of sterene sheet softened in boiling water to strech 'n' turn in a way to look realistic. Soft sanding applyied on the blade's leading eadge to be shaped as it should be. The spinner cone was made of an old 1/48 scale fuel tank tip, found in sparebox.

Some update pictures after washing / weathering / colour fading. Control cables are already installed. Still remain to be added: The canopy, Both propellers, The radio device & GPS, The engine control levers, The windshield and windscreen wiper, and also paint some details such as engine cables etc.

The steps are slow, but I prefer steady progress rather than hastily. Unfortunately, the problems are not missed. Although I do not think myself as awkward, after the incident with the (voluntarily flying) autogyro model scaffolding under my sleeve and threw (launched to be precise) on its own initiative, brought about 4 or 5 spin turns and finally abnormal landed about 5 feet away and 3 feet lower, I begin to believe that this model has been seriously voodoo curses. Despite the delicate structure of the fuselage, the use of CA glue and maybe a miracle, were the main reasons that the model escaped having suffered only a broken landing gear, scratchbuilt again. After the scale model was masked & sprayed with primary colors as described above, the same methodology followed for the canopy, scratchbuilt by transparent plastic on a vacuum former. After the acrylic paint and mat enamel coat dried, I removed the masking tape and I saw the following: The masking tape that I had used, had left noticeable marks on the transparent part of the canopy - something that had never done before! Beeing sure now that this scale model is indeed cursed, I dropped by the local grocery store around the corner from where I returned with few garlic cloves. Not having a similar experience before and fearing that if I try to clean the masking tape glue marks using White Spirit will make the things worse with a huge dull hood, I tried to rub the clear plastic part with alcohol which although more friendly to transparent plastics, had to pass crash test first. Dipping a cotton swab in alcohol and water solution and vigorously rubbing the hood, the masking tape glue marks, finally removed as if it was gum. With my heart beating on normal levels again and using airbrush, light tones of basic colours and shades of sand sprayed at low pressure to represent the weathering and dusting on LG and the lower part of airframe. After a satisfactory weathering result, the scale model was sprayed with mat enamel coat. I left it 24 hours to dry and the individual parts of the scale model were test assembled (no glue), so that the autogyro model start to look like a united construction and please the eye. Having now left the last part of the assembly of the individual already dyed parts of the model, such as the rotor blades, the cockpit flight & engine controls, the cables, the seat belts and other necessary details, I begin to hope that perhaps this model might be ready in 2010.

After the interior colour dried, the slips of paper and adhesive masking tape removed and minor corrections were made in 1-2 spots with a fine brush. The result was sprayed with gloss varnish, to apply washing on certain points.

I placed small slips of paper between the frame and the sheet of the fuselage, to protect the red colour that was already applied, covered by a gloss varnish and dried. Next, I masked areas not to be painted and sprayed with the interior green colour.

Under the above "adventure" circumstances and considering that all these years dealing with the scale modeling I've tried many color striping methods (including ModelStrip, kitchen oven cleaners, blue alcohol, brake fluid, nitro laquer disolvent, etc), I think that sodium hydroxide NaOH is the best method so far, for the following reasons: Kitchen oven cleaners in spray canisters, can do the job, but they cost 3 - 4 € for a 300ml product in which also includes the propellant gas. On the other hand, the NaOH in liquid form is a pure substance, much less price, taking for 1lt bottle, which equals 3.3+ times more product! Using the liquid form NaOH (which you can fill a plastic bowl), you can sink several plastic pieces, same time! The brake fluid may be effective and remove paint, but it is not plastic friendly plastic and is likely to convert the scale model into a blob of molten plastic. It is clearly more expensive and as far it is highly toxic, flammable and hardly to manege, I will not recommended it for scale modeling use. Nitric acid laquer disolvent, could be a nice solution for metal figures paint striping, but it is not the best for the plastic. Just like the brake fluid, it does melt and damage plastic parts.

CHAPTER VIII - Live After Death When I started building the model, I did not expect to present the CHAPTER VIII under this title. Bus as all the sad & bad situations in life, it was unexpected and accompanied by great frustration because suddenly I saw months effort to dissolve in only few minutes. The old colours (or bad white spirit solvent) that I used, have led to drying crack. Unfortunately, I ignored all the warning signs such as thick grains left by the white colour in which I primed the scale model before the final painting. Having as target to make this model alive again, just like Iron Maiden Eddie’s Live After Death, I decided to try a full reset – after all, I had nothing to lose! The scale model was already FUBAR. The following photos show the unsuccessful paint process. The problems appeared marked inside the red circles. Unfortunately, I have no photos of the model while looked completely written-off, because at that time I was not in a mood to take pictures! ModelStrip, was the first thing came up as the most conventional solution to try paint removing. Following the instructions on the box, a generous stuff applied on the model, wrap it with airtight plastic bag to prevent drying and wait about 15 hours to let the chemical work. Opening the bag next day and checking the results, the colour (or rather the colour layers) were soft and could be removed by rubbing vigorously with an old toothbrush. Unfortunately, using the brush on some very delicate spots (even with careful use), had as result to break / or ruin a couple of plastic pieces. Moreover, the paint could not be removed through narrow points and difficult locations. At this point and while I’ve already used all the ModelStrip material without being satisfied with the outcome, I decide to change tactics to something more unconventional, such as oven cleaner. Following the product’s directions as always, I sprayed the model with the material, wrap it with airtight plastic bag to prevent drying and wait about 15 hours to let the chemical work. Testing results next day, the oven cleaner failed no more than ModelStrip. I noticed that the colour could be removed but only when pressure and persistent rubbing with brush and that was prohibitive for some parts of the model. Not having another solution, I approached the most unconventional method and visit a science specialist - my local grocery store! - Hey man! I need something really strong to clean up kitchen’s oven? - Really strong? Use this! …and he gives me a dust covered 1lt plastic bottle found in an almost unreachable shelf. Reading the bottle’s label, I found out that it contains sodium hydroxide also known as lye (corrosive alkaline substance) or caustic soda and is a caustic metallic base. It is used in many industries, mostly as a strong chemical base with chemical type NaOH. - Are you sure that this will work? Are you sure that this is safe to use? - Trust me. It’s gonna clean up the kitchen’s oven like a nuclear bomb! - How much? - 3.50 € . Take it or leave it. Thinking about a possible failure, I filled a plastic bowl with the milky liquid contained in the bottle and threw all the model pieces inside. As long as the autogyro model was already FUBAR, I had nothing to loose to try. I sealed the bowl with a cover and leave the sodium hydroxide to act for 20-30 minutes while the instructions sets out to wipe the sodium hydroxide chemical liquid after 10 minutes. Opening the plastic bowl’s cover, a nice surprise followed... The truth is I was delighted! Styrene pieces simply and magically totally striped off the enamel colour layers! Absolutely success, without even apply brush cleaning! Amazing product - incredible grocer! Just because I couldn’t believe it and I wanted to make sure that the colour striped off because of the sodium hydroxide chemical (and not the previous used ModelStrip product or the kitchen oven cleaner), I decide to experiment. I threw in a bowl, already filled with the chemical, a 1/18 scale female figure that I was about to convert for a future project. The specific 1/18 scale female figure, is made by Fast Women brand and can be found by clicking HERE). The results after just 15 minutes in the sodium hydroxide chemical - Perfect! The following pictures, show the "before" and the "after". Keep in mind that the sodium hydroxide is (and thus should be considered) a strong caustic base. This means that: Throughout the impregnation of the model parts into sodium hydroxide, you should take all the necessary protective measures (like mentioned in the warnings on the bottle’s label) and is certainly to use disposable surgical gloves made by latex and breathing mask with appropriate filters to protect against possible fumes. The colour stripped plastic parts must be rinsed with soft acid to neutralize the caustic base and produce salt and water. Dunking the colour striped parts in plastic container filled with cooking vinegar and then rinsing with plenty of lukewarm water, plastic is now safe to handle with bare hands.

It’s sad! Obviously, voodoo curses came from the unspeakable dirty Viper snake, got real and the final varnish finishes on the model suffered what the Americans call as FUBAR - F@cked Up Beyond All Recognition. In brief words, the color layers popped and “cracked” everywhere on the model’s surface, just before the final touch. For some mysterious reason, the color looked peeled off and an unexpected chipping (I would never succeed this by purpose) appeared! The scale modeling accidents committee is expected to investigate the possible reasons within following days, but unconfirmed sources report "pilot’s error" - OK, I made a rookie’s mistake, while using old colors or coat varnish. Meanwhile, the following actions took place: Garlic cloves were hanged across the workbench to keep away evil curses, vampires and “snakes” (or those who claim themselves as “snakes”), The scale model were covered with a thick layer of ModelStrip product, locked tightly in a plastic bag and left overnight to let the chemical work.

CHAPTER VII - Canopy construction The Tervamaki Engineering JT-9T autogyro canopy is made by bented and cold-formed 3mm polycarbonate sheet. The backwards sliding canopy of the single seat JT-9 version, offers the possibility to taxi and fly slowly with the canopy open, a benefit in a hot climate. The trainer / tandem seating JT-9T, has a side opening one piece canopy. Of course, canopy modifications can be done, according the autogyro owner's personal needs or desires. I used styrene plastic card to form it as shown into following pictures to give the basic shape of the canopy. Then, a layer of polyester filler applied on the styrene. The specific polyester filler I used, comes with the proper catalyst which provides a solid rock build and approximately 3 to 5 minutes time window to form it into shape. I prefer to use epoxy putty or polyester filler with fiberglass grains for special purposes, because: It becomes solid rock within only few minutes or seconds, it does not shrink and does not crack after months or years, you can pour to any shape that you want but you need to work fast because as soon as you mix it with catalyst cream approx 5%, you have limited time before becoming solid rock, you can also put additional layers of epoxy or polyester filler to build up, you can sand it, you can drill it, you can use any type of scale modeling glue, any type of primer or enamel / acrylic paint on it with no problem, can be purchased at any good crafts store into 250ml, 500ml, 1lt (comes with a tube of catalyst hardener) or bigger canisters and if you can't find it, fear not and try your local decent hardware store and finally... it is cheaper than dirt - estimated prices are £3 to £10 depending the canister size, the quality, if contains fiberglass grains for maximum strenght etc. Keep in mind that the chemical reaction after mixing the polyester filler with the catalyst hardener, produces some heat that possibly effect on thin plastic parts, so test it first before try it on your scale model. I don’t think that the produced heat is more than Fahrenheit 110, but better watchout. Remember that epoxy materials are dangerous when breath or shallow and could result skin, eyes or lungs problems or even cancer when used for long period with no precaution measures. Always keep in mind, that a powerful vacuum system to suck away the epoxy dust should be used all time to keep the workbench area clean while sanding or milling epoxy or resin materials. Using an issued breathing mask and a pair of surgery latex gloves to prevent dust contact with lungs and fingers while sanding or milling epoxy, is also an important matter that you should seriously take care of! My recommendation is to also wear an overall working suit (as I do) to keep your clothes dust free while sanding epoxy. Some people might find it too much, but I wouldn't like to bring epoxy dust & grains from my work bench into living room and my beloved. When the basic canopy shape made by styrene sheet, was fully covered by a a thin layer of polyester filler and had enough time to polymerize and get solid rock, I sand it with wet sandpaper to make the cast curved and shiny. To produce a thin-skinned canopy, the polyester part should be vacuum formed. As described into previous chapters, a transparent plastic sheet were pined on a wooden frame, preheated into electric oven and as soon as I noticed that it started drooping down, I vacuum formed it. The clear plastic nicely formed around the canopy cast following the curves & details as planed. Using an X-acto, I removed the formed canopy buble from the transparent sheet and start adding details, such as canopy's frame. Few drops of cyanoacrylate glue applied on the right spots with great caution. Remember that CA glue does fog the transparent parts and this canopy would not be an exception - that's why I placed some very tiny drops of it, just on few spots.

CHAPTER VI - Landing gear system construction The single seat JT-9 and the tandem seating JT-9T, are available with tricycle landing gear system with a steerable nose wheel or a taildragger version too. For both types, the type of landing gear is based on the placement of the exact CG position, determined after complete weight calculations according the owner/pilot's personal needs. My 1/18 scale model is designed to be equiped with a tricycle landing gear system with a steerable nose wheel. An utillity free-spinning tail wheel is also placed, to prevent any accidental damage on tail structure if the autogyro raise nose too high while in ground. Feel free to check the diagrams and images found into my first post of this project, back in page 1. Using plastic card, sprue, metal wire, resin tires and brakes fit accurately to 1/18 scale diagrams and few unidentified parts found in the sparebox, I build a realistic looking 1/18 scale main landing gear system with absorbers and a steerable nose gear. I stole a nickel plated button from GF's favorite dress (hope she'll never find out where's the missing button or I'm in real trouble), placed it into a plastic tube piece, covered with with transparent plastic card & add some details to simulate the landing light in scale. Yeah, yeah, yeah... I know! I am a button stealer, but let's admit it! We all prefer less buttons on female dresses

CHAPTER V - "H" shaped tail construction The Tervamaki Engineering JT-9T autogyro designed by Finnish engineer Mr. Jukka Tervamaki, is equipped with a twin "H" shaped tail. To build this, I started by rolling flexible styrene sheet around a plastic tube and forming as required to look like the real JT-9T autogyro right side elevator main wing - only 18 times smaller. Following, using the sandwich method (placing one plastic sheet over another), cutting carefully and working extensively with sandpaper to form into desired size and aerodynamic shape, I manage to build the right side stabilizer wing. As you understand, the left side elevator wing, the stabilizer and rudder, will be stripped in a way to show the airframe aluminum skeleton.

Few hours later, soft sanding and a quick airbrushing with white color to make mistakes, scratches etc become easy to spot, the rear cockpit cover was finally ready.

My good friend Dimitris Pravinos, who is a WWII German tanks specialist scale modeler, sent me about five hundred (!!!) cups he found and looked ideal to use them for mixing colors, modeling putty etc. Few drops of nitrocellulose lacquer thinner and just a little amount of Humbrol modeling putty, were more than enough to prepare a nice liquid mixture to apply on the rear cockpit cover surface, to ensure that little tiny scratches would disappear.